F 5A8 




BOOK 

OT TH& 



KORTH SHORE 





Highways anaBwAYS 
East AND PRgSENT 




Class /""sTy- y 
Book ^ 



>..0^:A/ 



CopyiiglitN" i 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



BOOK of the NORTH SHORE 



BOOK of the NORTH SHORE 



HOMES, GARDENS, LANDSCAPES 

HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS 

PAST AND PRESENT 



By MARIAN A. WHITE 
Aiidior oiiff Lecturer 




Entrance and Bronze Door. Residence of Mr. S. H. Gunder 



CHICAGO 

J. HARRISON WHITE 

1910 



f£ 






Copyright 1910 by 

J. Harrison White 

Chicago 



Engraved and Printed 
by The Franklin Company of Chicago 



■CCI.A27S243 



TO THE 
PATRONS AND SUBSCRIBERS 

WHO HAVE MADE 

ITS PRODUCTION POSSIBLE 

THIS BOOK 

IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED BY 
THE PUBLISHER 




10 




12 




13 




14 




15 




16 




17 




18 




19 




20 




21 




22 




23 




24 




25 



ri 





Photo by Benim 



RESIDENCE OF W. F. GROSVENOR, M.D. 
4829 Kenmore Ave., Argyle Park 



Plate No. 20 




Photo by Jackson 



Plate No. '^l 



RESIDENCE OF MR. FRED A. ANDERSON 
S022 Kenmore Ave., Argyle Park 



26 




Photo by Barker 



RESIDENXE OF MR. F. B. MONTGOMERY 
6143 Kenmore Ave., North Edgewater 



Plate No. 22 




Photo by Eemm 



Plate No. 23 



RESIDENCE OF MR. GEO. N. MIDDENDORF 
6326 Kenmore Ave., North Edgewater 



27 




28 




29 




30 




31 




Photo by Beiiini 



RESIDENCE OF DR. A. COSMAS GARVY 
6000 Sheridan Road, Edgewater 




Plate No. 29 



RESIDENCE OF CAPT. D. SULLIVAN 
5746 Sheridan Road, Edgewater 



32 




Photo by Barker 



Plate No. 30 



RESIDENCE OF MR. F. W. GETTY 
6821 Sheridan Road, Rogers Park 




Photo by Barker 



Plate No. 3I 



RESIDENCE OF MR. ALFRED DECKER 
6958 Sheridan Road, Rogers Park 



33 




34 




35 




36 




37 




38 




39 




40 




41 




42 




43 




44 




45 




4H 



■>xmmik VMiff 




47 




48 




49 




50 




Plate No. 49 



RESIDENCE OF MR. CALLISTUS S. ENNIS 
1437 Pratt Ave., Rogers Park 



51 




Photo by Barker 



RESIDENCE OF MR. A. P. BRINK 
1427 Bryan Ave., Birchwood 



Plate No. 50 




Photo by Bemm 



PLATE No. 51 



RESIDENCE OF MR. HARRY E. ALEXANDER 
1419 Bryan Ave., Birchwood 



52 




Photo by Bemm 



BUNGALOW OF MR, GEORGE A. STONE 
1420 Bryan Ave., Birchwood 



Plate No. 52 




Photo by Barker 



PLATE No. 53 



RESIDENCE OF MR. JAMES J. O'MEARA 
1232 Pratt Ave., Rogers Park 



53 




Photo by Ben 



Landscape Architect, A. Setterberg 



PLATE No. 54 



GARDEN OF MR. H. L. HOLLISTER'S RESIDENCE 
1224 Bryan Ave., Birchwood 



54 




55 




56 




57 




58 




59 




60 




rhi.tu l>v Darke 



Plate No. 61 



RESIDENCE OF MR. STEPHEN L. WALKER 
133 1 Chase Ave., Birchwood 




Photo by Barker 



Plate No. 62 



RESIDENCE OF MR. L. P. HAMMOND 
1 701 Chase Ave., Birchwood 



61 




Photo by Barker 



RESIDENCE OF MR. JOHN C. THORN 
7409 Sheridan Road, Birchwood 



Plate No. 63 




Photo by Barker 



RESIDENCE OF MR. W. JAEKEL 
6957 Sheridan Road, Rogers Park 



Plate No. 64 



.62 




63 




Photo t)j- Be 



Plate No. 66 



VIEW FROM MR. E. D. MOENG'S PORCH 
Foot of Columbia Avenue and the Beach, Rogers Park 



64 




65 




66 




67 




68 




Plate No. 71 



VIEWS IN EVANSTON, ILL. 



69 




70 




71 




RESIDENCE OF MR. WALTER M. POND 
1 1 17 Forest Ave., Evanston, 111. 



ri,.\TI-; No. 74 




Photo by Fowler 



RESIDENCE OF MR. F. H. BRUNELL 
2681 Sheridan Road, Evanston, III. 



PLATE No. 75 



72 



'^^:m 




Q 

Pi 

o . 



Pi c« 



fc 


n 


<) 


ni 




-n 


w 


■c 


r ) 


HI 


Z 




w 




Q 


^ 






C/J 




W 




P^ 





73 




74 




c^- W 



75 



%t. - 


^ 


Ste!.Jfe:?^5^^^.P,*^ 


JWm^^^^HkK;'. ';^ i^ 


'Ei,^.:,,;: 








t^ (C^r ^-""^f^i'^^**^ 


'■^"'"^^WlBfl dW^ ^^ :..'^|^^^^| 






,V v^*"''"* 


^ 'TIH^^I^,^.:^^^ 


t-'St^-... 


■NHnF 




V - - : 


r.j ' 




u„^.:-^^j^: 


.^^^^^^^^m ' 


1- ■ - 



Photo by Howler 



RESIDENCE OF DR. RUFUS B. STOLP 
Kenilworth, 111. 



Plate No. 79 



'■if'- '. 



Photo by Fowle 






.-■^^'^^ 



. ''■■ i'^ ^■ 



RESIDENCE OF MR. LOUIS T. WILSON 
Kenilworth, III. 



PLATE No. 80 



76 




Photo by Fowl 



Plate No. 81 



RESIDENCE OF MR. W. L. SERRELL 
Kenilworth, 111. 




Plate No. 8^ 



A PIONEER RESIDENCE 



77 




78 




79 




80 




81 




82 




Photo by Fuermann PLATE No. 

LOGGIA OF RESIDENCE OF MR. FREDERICK MORGAN STEELE 
Highland Park, III. 



83 




84 



^ 








p>^ 


^m 






V 


^m'"""- 


^p^^pllk-. 


:--d|: 




f ■ 




Hr|^ - ^^^^^^^^^ ' '■ ''^^a^|9l 


^|k^ '^^P^^IHH 


, '.-.^ 


I^^Hii' 


» ^^^WMl ^^ ,j^ 




[llfPlrV! 


1|^^^ 


H 




H^^ril 


^^K^^tt 


3 


B^^fcl^^!^'^3HK 


i^ss^ 


J , ^JW"""^-' 


^ 



Photo by Bemm PLATE No. 90 

"CONTENT," RESIDENCE OF MR. AND MRS. BENJ. A. FESSENDEN 
Circle Ave., Highland Park, 111. 




Photo by Bemm Plate No. 

••OAKLANDS," HOMESTEAD OF THE PUBLISHER (1888-1893) 

(Built in 1876) 

Ravinia, 111. 



85 




Bronze Tablet on Wall ol Entrance to Mr. E. D. Moeng's Residence, Rogers Park 




Highways and Byways 
Past and Present 

MERICA holds the future." So said Matthew Arnold about the time when 

Chicago, ravaged by flame, contemplated the ruin of that which had been 

evolved from the hunting grounds and tepees of the Red Man, and of which 

she had been justly proud. A momentary pang of anguish, a throb of despair, 

and the afflicted city, in which the true pioneer enterprise had been a tower 

of strength from its earliest inception, asserted itself with redoubled might, and 

over a new trail in its cinereous highways the waters of Lake Michigan, above 

which still hung a paU of suff'ocating smoke, caught the resolve " I Will! " while 

the winds eagerly took up the refrain, and joyously bore the bewitching lay to 

a sympathizing yet wonder-stricken world. 

The ethical student and writer, quoted at the beginning of the preceding para- 
graph, probably had no thought of the then unfortunate city in the far-away, fair 
State of Illinois, yet the prophetic words were of great significance, for through the 
portal of Chicago, even at that time, a larger America was in process of evolution, 
while today it is developing resources that will ultimately enrich and sustain one 
of the largest populations the world has known. In order to more intelligently 
comprehend the present, it will be well to bear in mind the settlement of com- 
munities and the making of cities in America, as gleaned from historical data, at 
a time when the thought of such a city as the present Chicago was as remote as 
the fabulous castle in the air. 

In 1607, the English were at Jamestown, Virginia; the French in Quebec, in 
161 2; while the Dutch had found their way to Manhattan Island, in 1614, and, rear- 
ing a few fisher huts for the purpose of shelter, evolved the present site of New York 
City. In 1620, the Puritans were at Plymouth; and fourteen years later, while 
Massachusetts is founding a representative government, making treaties with the 
Indians and establishing friendly relations with individual colonies, a frail birch- 
bark canoe is gliding through the neck of water, connecting Lake Huron with Lake 
Michigan; and the lovely white cliffs of Mackinac, crested with sweet-scented pine, 
gave silent welcome to the first pale face. They had long — no one knows how long — 
been familiar with copper-colored visages, similar to those of the seven lithesome 
paddlers, whose regular, skillful toying stroke bore the canoe, in which sat Jean 



BOOK OF THE NORTH SHORE 



Nicolet, alert and observant from sixteen years of frontier life, into the newly 
discovered Lac des Ilinese — now Lake Michigan. This body of sparkling water 
seemed, to the explorer, to reach into illimitable distance, while the Indians, familiar, 
perhaps, with its varying moods, kept the canoe near the shore line, reaching Puan 
(Green) Bay and the Fox River in safety. Our particular story has nothing more 
to do with Jean Nicolet's further explorations, except that on his return to civiliza- 
tion he created a desire in the minds of the adventurous spirits of New France to 
explore for the sake of wealth and acquisition of territory; while the Jesuits, for this 
religious Order had come from France to Canada, in 1625, were more zealous than 
ever in their efforts to promote Christianity among the aborigines. 

So ever following in the wake of explorer, and not infrequently, taking the 
initiative of exploration upon himself, came the Jesuit priest, and he who has gone 
down in the annals of his church as the "Martyr Jogues," was the first to carry the 
message of the Cross to the Sault Indians. Beyond the Sault, and into that region 
now designated the "Northwest," and to which Chicago has been, to a large extent, 
and is still, a portal, nothing was known until the explorations of the fearless and 
indefatigable Radison and Groseillier in 1659-60. And in 1674, Marquette is at 
the mouth of the Portage (Chicago) River! 

Geologists assure us that far back in the ages, of which we have no record, 
the western shore of Lake Michigan was not always confined within its present 
boundary. The water was some miles inland, and that the Lake began to trend 
westward, at what is now known as Winnetka, lapping the shore line of the long, 
southwestern slope which starts in the suburb of Wilmette. As the Lake receded 
from this ancient shore line it left, as an authority asserts, "one slender two-toed 
footprint, a rivulet with two branches. The north branch, coming in at the Skokie, 
preserved a southward course, nearly parallel with the deserted shore line; while 
a south branch, with various creeping affluents, started northward from the aban- 
doned divide, and met the other half way; after which the two made eastward to 
find the parent body, the Lake." 

Archaeologists also affirm the existence of another race before the coming of 
the Red Man, which lived in a higher state of civilization than the latter. The 
same authorities assume that this higher civilization was either driven out or exter- 
minated by the Indians. The earth, in the locality in question, has yielded up suffi- 
cient evidence that there existed such a people, and, from these antiquities, the 
dwellers upon the western shore of Lake Michigan are becoming cognizant of the 
fact, that tradition and legendary lore, those features of antiquity upon which older 
nations are wont to pride themselves, and which is supposed to be the necessary 
inspiration toward patriotism and an art National, is being unearthed and presented 
in due form for historical and poetical purposes. 

The landmarks of the Indian are more easily traced, although much of historic 
import, that should have been preserved, is scattered, and, in many instances, utterly 
destroyed. The coming of the white man was as a swift, overwhelming tide, to 
which the Red Man had to yield. Yet has he an important significance — even if 
his origin still continue to be a matter of ethnological tangle — in American history, 
for it cannot be complete without him. The first explorers and the early religious 
teachers found him, not what he is today — a mere apology for the noble Red, who 
roamed the country while in its primitive, wilderness beauty. Longfellow's 
"Hiawatha" is not entirely fiction in the guise of imaginative embellishment by 
a poet; neither is the noble "Chactas" of Chateaubriand's beautiful imagery alto- 
gether a fanciful personality! For if the mind be free from prejudice, it may glean 
from the writings of the early students of Indian character, that which cannot help 
but resolve itself into a more appreciative understanding of the merits of a people 
that were compelled to submit, after more than two centuries of hostilities, in which 
loss of life, and destruction of property, played a conspicuous part. Foot by foot, 
almost inch by inch, from the Atlantic to the Pacific, the Red Man fought desper- 
ately against the white invader, and finally yielded in the desert country, "for the 
sake" — to use the words of the noble Chief Joseph — "of our women and children." 
It was the inevitable outcome of a contest waged in the interests of civilization, 
but it was, nevertheless, a cruel one; and a sigh of relief, not unmixed with pity for 
their fate, went through the land, when it was learned that the Indian war was at 
an end, and the survivors among the Reds were to be corralled into Reservations, 
and their children educated. 

8 8 8 8 

When the French explorers, Jesuit priests, R^coUet friars, trappers, hunters 
and voyageurs first pushed their way through the country of prairie and timber- 
land, of which Chicago and its North Shore is a small but important section, there 



88 



HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 

were representatives of three great Indian families occupying the Northwest — the 
Sioux, the Algonquin, and the Iroquois families. Of these, the Algonquins fur- 
nished to Illinois the following tribes: the Illini, Kickapoo, Ottawas, Pottawattomi, 
and Sac and Fox. All these tribes believed in a Great Spirit, as well as in a coming 
deliverer, the latter to be heralded by signs and wonders. Their feasts and dances, 
ceremonies and orgies, have now become incorporated in the military annals of 
our frontier life, since most of these celebrations led to some breach of the law, 
established under military direction to keep peace between the natives and the 
early settlers. 

The Indian mind is given to associate everything in Nature with the presence 
of the Great Spirit. Mountains, waterfalls, lakes and rivers, particularly if they 
be of undue magnitude and power, were sacred to the same Great Spirit, whom they 
generally designated "Manitou." The clouds, thunder, lightning, rain and wind 
were thought to be expressions of minor spirits under the direction of the Great 
Spirit. Among the different tribes are any number of legends, handed down by 
word of mouth for generations. Most of the Indian tribes retain a legend of a 
mystical bird, said to come only in the summer evenings, at the time of full moon, 
to sing, in the nearest grove to their wigwams, lays of the spirit land in which are 
conveyed tidings from the loved dead. As the history of Chicago and the North 
Shore seems to be more closely affiliated with the Pottawattomies, or "canoe-men" — 
so designated by the Illini and the Miamis, whom they had driven from the vicinity 
of Chicago, before the dawn of the eighteenth century — it may not be out of place 
to note the legend connected with the origin of this particular tribe, as well as their 
mode of addressing the Great Spirit, at their Thanksgiving feast. 

The Pottawattomies believed in two spirits, symbolizing good and evil. The 
first, addressed as Kitchemanito, meaning Great Spirit, and the second, as Matche- 
manilo, or the Evil Spirit. Kitchemanito, according to this legend, first created 
the world, filling it with a class of beings, who only bore the appearance of men, 
but who were, practically, perverse, ungrateful, wicked dogs, who never raised their 
eyes from the earth to thank the Great Spirit for anything. For this base conduct 
they were plunged, with the world itself, into a great lake, and all were drowned. 

Then Kitchemanito withdrew the earth from the water, and made a man — a 
man good to look upon and youthful. But he became lonesome, and, at last so sad, 
that Kitchemanito exhibited his pity, by sending to him a sister to cheer him. After 
awhile, the young man had a dream, which he revealed to his sister: "Five young 
men," said he, "will come to your wigwam door, tonight, to visit you. The Great 
Spirit forbids you to answer, or even to look up and smile at either of the first four. 
But, when the fifth comes, you may speak and laugh, to prove that you are pleased." 

The sister followed the instructions given, and when Usama (tobacco), who 
was the first to call, came to her lodge, she repulsed him, and he fell dead. The 
second was Wapako (pumpkin); the third, Eshkossimin (melon), and the fourth, 
Kokees (the bean); but they each met the same fate as Usama. When Damin, or 
Mondamin, which signifies maize, presented himself, she drew aside the skin of 
tapestry guarding the entrance to her wigwam, laughed merrily, and extended to 
him a friendly greeting. They were married, and from this union originated the 
Indian. Damin, in the meanwhile, had disposed of the bodies of his rivals by putting 
them under the earth. From their graves, in due course, sprang tobacco, melons 
of all kinds, including the squashes, and beans. Thus Kitchemanito gave to the 
race which he had created, that which should provide a variety of vegetable food 
with the meat they cooked in their akecks, or kettles, as well as providing sufficient 
for offerings to himself in their feasts and ceremonies. 

The Pottawattomies' thanksgiving contains a charm of poetry and sentiment 
that is delightfully interesting, inasmuch as it is similar in its thought to many of 
the Psalms, and, in construction, resembles the canticles in use in both the Roman 
Catholic and Episcopal churches. We have to picture the Pottawattomies in their 
primitive environment — the lovely prairie-lands stretching as far as the eye can 
reach, and the shadowy forest growth untouched by woodman's axe; the rivers and 
streams gleaming like threads of silver, and the Lake, always varying in mood and 
color, reaching far, far away, bounded as it seemed by no distant shore line — before 
we can intelligently enter into the depths of emotion of which he was capable, in 
giving voice to: 

"We return thanks to our Mother, the Earth, which sustains us. We return 
thanks to the rivers and streams, which supply us with water. We return thanks 
to all herbs which furnish medicine for the cure of our diseases. We return thanks 
to the corn and her sisters, the beans and squashes, which give us life. We return 
thanks to the wind, which, moving the air, has banished diseases. We return thanks 
to the moon and stars, which have given to us their light when the sun was gone. 



89 




90 



HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS— PAST AND PRESENT 

We return thanks to our grandfather, Heno, that he has protected his children from 
witches and reptiles and given us his rain. We give thanks to the sun, that he has 
looked upon the earth with a beneficent eye. We return thanks to the Great Spirit 
in whom is embodied all goodness and who directs all things for the good of his 
children." 

8 8 8 8 

For some five years, previous to June i8, 1673, P^re Jacques Marquette had 
been engaged in missionary work among the Indians of the Upper Lakes' region. 
On the date in question, however, the good father is found in the companionship 
of Louis Joliet and four Canadian voyageurs, descending the Mississippi in two frail 
birch-bark canoes. Joliet had been specially chosen by those of authority in New 
France to accompany Marquette in his mission to the aborigines west of the Green 
Bay country. It is not our purpose to give the narrative of their voyage adown 
the Great Unknown River, except in so far as it is of vital interest to our particular 
subject. Here were two men, totally dissimilar, yet both courageous and ambitious, 
drawn closely together in profound admiration for the marvelous works of Nature 
seen in the region, until then unknown to the white man. Both like the stalwart 
voyageurs manipulating the paddles, are accustomed to the hardships of early 
frontier life. 

Pdre Marquette, burning with religious fervor and zeal, was ever on the look- 
out for savages to be instructed and converted; Joliet, with an explorer's keen power 
of observation, and with the hunter's and trapper's experience, appreciated the vast 
stretches of silent prairie and dense forest growth haunted by game and suggestive 
of valuable acquisitions of fur and peltries, was not anxious, except for the sake 
of information, to meet the natives of the country through which they were now 
passing. But, after some ten days of travel, imprints of a human foot were visible 
m the soft mud of the river bank, and Marquette and Joliet resolved to leave their 
canoes in charge of their engages, and follow the deeply indented trail to which the 
footsteps trended. On, into the heart of the majestic forest, they urged their way, 
coming at last to an Indian village, and creating, as might be supposed, no end of 
excitement among the natives, as, stepping into the open, priest and explorer waved 
their hands in token of peace. 

"Who are you?" asked Marquette in the soft musical voice with which he had 
invested the Algonquin language, and of which he was a master. And the three 
Indians who had advanced to meet him, answered, in the same tongue: 

"We are lUini," the latter word simply signifying "men." And they offered 
the peace pipe to the two pale faces who had so unceremoniously invaded their 
domain. "We are lUini," or "men;" as if this gentler tribe had desired to intimate, 
by so dignified an answer; "Do not fear us, for we are, as you are, men." So being 
persuaded, Marquette and Joliet spent the remainder of that day and the night, 
in the village, feasted by the tribe and gaining information of value regarding the 
surrounding tribes. The day following, Marquette told them the story of the Cross 
in the Algonquin language. At the close of his impassioned appeal, the chief of 
the tribe rose, and addressing the good father, said: 

"I thank you, Black Robe (the usual Indian appellation for the Jesuit mis- 
sionaries), and you. Frenchman," addressing Joliet, "for taking so much trouble 
to come and visit us. Never has the earth appeared so beautiful, nor the sun so 
brilliant, as today." Then, placing his hand on the head of a little Indian boy, whom 
he was about to present to them, the chief continued: 

"Here is my son, whom I give to you to show you my heart. I pray you have 
pity upon me and my nation. It is you, who know the Great Spirit who made us 
all. It is you who speak to Him and know His word. Ask Him to give us life and 
health, and come live with us and show Him to us." Such were the Illini, after 
whom our State is named, when first approached by the white man. 

Escorted to their canoes by several hundred savages in picturesque array, who 
lined the river bank until Marquette and his party had passed from sight, priest 
and explorer passed into the stretch of country which knew not the pale face. South- 
ward they were borne, as far as the Arkansas; then began the return journey, in the 
overpowering heat of midsummer, and in a country infested with mosquitoes, and 
haunted by malarious emanations, as well as by unfriendly Indians. The latter 
were invariably appeased by the gentle, kindly voice of the Jesuit, whose delicate 
and careworn visage, and gaunt form — shielded yet defined by the now frayed and 
travel-stained robe of his Order — together with the quick movement of the nervous 
fingers over the rosary, and that, to the Indian, mysterious insignia depending from 
the girdle, seemed to make an appeal to the inner consciousness, transforming the 
savage nature into something more typical of manhood. 



91 




92 




Plate No. 96 



MAIN VESTIBULE, LOYOLA ACADEMY 



93 



BOOK OF THE NORTH SHORE 



The voyageurs are now stemming the current on the northward journey, but 
the good Pere Marquette, never of robust constitution, lies prone in his canoe, a 
victim of the unhealthful exhalations of marsh and swamp. With a skillful sweep 
of the paddles, and a sigh of relief on the part of all, the canoes are now gliding over 
the more placid waters of the Illinois River and among natives who are friendly dis- 
posed. Delay is not to be thought of, however, and, after Marquette's assurance 
of a speedy return, the explorers, accompanied by a chief and several young warriors, 
push their way from the Illinois into the Des Plaines, making portage to the Chicago 
River. Thus they reached Lake Michigan. 

Hugging closely the western shore, for it is the fall season, and its chill is in 
the atmosphere, they ultimately reach Green Bay, after an absence of four months, 
during which time they had covered a distance of some three thousand miles, by 
canoe and portage. Joliet went on to Sault Ste. Marie, and from thence to Mon- 
treal, while Marquette, sick almost unto death, remained at the wretched mission 
of St. Francois Xavier, suffering all through the winter, but gaining strength little 
by little during the following summer. It is now autumn, and the consuming 
desire to be up and doing forced this heroic missionary to set about keeping his 
promise to the Illinois Indians. So on October 25, 1674, he set forth with two 
engages along the east shore of Green Bay. They were joined by a band of Potta- 
wattomies in five canoes, and a few Illinois Indians occupying four canoes. All 
begged to accompany the solitary canoe. The Indians were familiar with the route; 
Marquette had been over it once. At the head of Sturgeon Cove, portage was made 
to Lake Michigan. October had now given place to November, and the Lake was 
swept by storm. They kept within shelter of the shore and we find Marquette 
recording, on November 20, "We slept at the bluffs, cabined poorly enough." It 
is supposed that this site is in the vicinity of Lake Bluff, thirty miles north of Chicago. 
About December first, the Httle company is again camped for the night "about 
five leagues from the Chicagou," which, in today's reckoning, brings the site about 
fifteen miles from Chicago, and in the neighborhood of the lighthouse at Evanston. 
The fourth of the same month they have reached the Chicago River. It is now winter in 
earnest, and the frail canoes, tossed and buffeted by wind and wave, before entering 
the river, are now, with great difficulty, urged through the already congealing stream. 
Reaching what is now known as the South Branch, Marquette was seized by 
a severe hemorrhage, and the faithful engages, realizing that further progress would 
be impossible, built a rude hut for shelter; and, eight days later, Marquette records 
that buffalo, deer and turkeys were hunted with success. Kindly disposed Indians 
journeyed some two leagues in order to bring cornmeal to the suffering Black Robe. 
Miles northward were two French traders, one of whom was skilled as a surgeon. 
They also came to Marquette with supplies, doing all in their power to alleviate his 
sufferings. One can hardly imagine anything more forlorn and wretched than the 
environment of this gentle, patient missionary. He bore all with remarkable forti- 
tude, and, in fact, the Relations teem with records of these early Jesuit missionaries — 
to whom we owe much — of absolute abnegation of self. 

Two centuries and some odd years have passed since Marquette wintered on 
the original site of Chicago, in a wilderness of prairie and woodland, unobstructed 
waterways and far-reaching vistas of the lovely body of water, yet unnamed, and 
the extent of which was barely realized. Lying in his primitive hut, his thoughts 
dwelling upon spiritual rather than upon temporal affairs, no vision ot what was 
to evolve from this desolate, dreary site distracted his meditations. It was not 
possible to conceive, even in the two hundred and thirty-six years that were to elapse, 
of a metropolis teeming with industrial ingeniousness, and throbbing with a popula- 
tion of over two millions, such as Chicago presents today! 

Did Marquette's sight embrace the woodland shores and its gentle undulations 
just north of what is now Devon Avenue? The bronzed leaves would still be cling- 
ing to the oaks, while between might be caught glimpses of a fair and promising 
site, which is now occupied by Loyola Academy, a very handsome structure stand- 
ing on a natural terrace, and the first of a group of buildings to be known as the 
Loyola University. This would be a fitting site for a memorial to Marquette either 
in form of a tablet in one of the buildings, or, still better, a statue of heroic propor- 
tions on its campus. For it is reasonable to assume, that this gentle missionary of 
the Cross, in his desire to meet the Indians, concentrated his vision on the shores, 
and, therefore, the present site, now occupied by the religious Order of which he was 
a zealous and devoted brother, should prove a suitable locality in which his memory 
may be perpetuated. S S S S 

One invariably feels chilly, even in an imaginative journey with either or with 
all of these self-sacrificing missionaries, along our North Shore. There was the 



94 



HIGHWAYS 



AND 



B Y W A Y S 



PAST 



A N D 



PRESENT 



good Father AUouez, the worthy successor of Marquette, who, with his companions, 
struggled with the ice-floes in this same region, in the winter of 1676 and 1677, drag- 
ging their canoes over the snow-bound byways, for many a dreary mile, on their 
way to the Illinois Indians. But it was early spring when they entered the mouth 
of the Chicago River, so, perchance, the forest-crested bluffs, of what is now Evanston, 
as well as the woodland dunes of our present Rogers Park and Edgewater, greeted 
the tempest-tossed missionary and his two boatmen with budding leaf and burgeon- 
ing blossorn, sending them on their way with Nature's benediction and with cheeri- 
ness in their souls. 




n.ATIi N'o. 97 

FROM AN EARLY PORTRAIT OF LA SALLE 

The first pretentious vessel sailing the waters of Lake Michigan was the Griflin, 
constructed by La Salle on the upper Niagara, and manned and equipped by this 
indefatigable and fearless explorer, whose name is written large in the annals of 
our State. The Griffin, with a crew of thirty-four sailtjrs and laborers, also carried 
a company of fur traders and others to assist La Salle in his land explorations. Reach- 
ing Green Bay, its cargo, consisting principally of parts of a like vessel to be built 
later, was discharged; then it was reladen with furs and despatched eastward, with 
injunctions to return as soon as possible with supplies. Authorities differ as to the 
size of the Griffin, some claiming forty-five and others sixty tons of burden. Be 



95 



BOOK OF THE NORTH SHORE 



this as it may, it was a noble and daring forerunner of the white-winged craft, that 
was later to brave the storms of old Lake Michigan and pile upon the docks of Chicago, 
as well as to bear therefrom that which meant riches and prosperity to the rapidly 
developing city. But the winds and waves of Lake Michigan were not friendly to 
the first "white wings" skimming its surface. Poor little phantom-ship! No one 
knows where she foundered, except that it was in the vicinity of the upper waters 
of the Lake. Not a vestige of vessel, valuable cargo, nor of brave crew was ever 
found ! 

La Salle, after despatching the Griffin and cherishing the bright hope of its 
speedy return, with his companions embarked on a fleet of four canoes, the prows 
of which were turned southward, having the St. Joseph River in view as ultimate 
destination. It is a motley company, crowded together with tools, merchandise 
and arms, in so small a compass. Let us take a peep at them, as they pass in review 
before the silent witnesses of bluff and forest, dune and woodland, constituting what 
is now designated the "North Shore." 

There is the leader, a young man of thirty- four years. Born in France, of 
wealthy parentage, an earnest Catholic educated by the Jesuits, La Salle had, at 
the age of twenty-three, crossed the ocean to the land of adventure. Aflame with 
enthusiasm to explore the wilderness lying beyond the frontier of New France, he 
sacrificed everything to ambition for his country's further aggrandizement. Loyal, 
brave, and undaunted by that which would have utterly crushed a weaker nature. 
La Salle's tragic fate, in less than ten years after our "North Shore" had witnessed 
his presence upon the stormy waters — it seems that Lake Michigan delighted in 
showing off on these particular occasions — is lamentable. "Never," writes Park- 
man, "under the impenetrable mail of paladin or crusader beat a heart ot more 
intrepid metal. America owes him an enduring memory." 

In this company are three R&oUet friars, priests of the gray robe. Then there 
are ten Canadian voyageurs, those daring, fearless, reckless, wiry individuals, who 
invariably plied their paddles to the tune of a merry chanson, brightening the way 
and bringing cheeriness out of gloom. They also were experts with the gun, and 
could vary the gleam of the paddle with the bark of firearms at will. A solitary 
Mohegan Indian, La Salle's faithful servant, added picturesqueness to the party. 

It was in October, 1679, that La Salle first set foot on Illinois soil. A heavy 
east wind had lashed the Lake into a fury — no worse than that which is familiar 
to us of today; but imagine the frail cockleshells, such as the canoes of that day, 
being at the mercy of old Lake Michigan when on such a rampage! By the limited 
knowledge that comes to us, we might say that La Salle was practically hurled upon 
the beach — exactly where is not known; said to be somewhere on the southern 
boundary of Lake County, and among unfriendly Indians, who came upon them 
during the night and stole some of their very limited supplies, at the same time 
pretending friendship. La Salle "pushed resolutely on, passing the mouth of the 
Chicago, and skirting the sand dunes" at the south end of the Lake, ultimately 
reaching the entrance to the St. Joseph River. 

It is New Year's Day, 1682, and La Salle, with his devoted Tonty and faithful 
Membr^, and the entire company — numbering fifty-four in all — for the exploration 
of the Mississippi, is camping upon the present site of Chicago. Crossing the Lake 
from the mouth of the Saint Joseph River, they found all the small streams froz'^n. 
So, strapping the canoes on rudely constructed sleds, for miles and miles they dragged 
them over the slippery surface, until open water was reached below Lake Peoria. 

8 8 8 8 

The name Chicago is said to be derived from "kago" signifying "something;" 
and "Chi" from "git-chie," meaning "great." It has been variously spelled, 
Chikagu, Chikagou, Chicaqw and Chicaqu, the latter being synonymous with 
Chicaque, or Chicaqua, which was the name borne by a long line of Illinois chiefs, 
and, thus applied, would signify "great" or "powerful." However, the name applied 
by the Indian himself, signifying "wild onion" or "skunkweed," being generally 
accepted, we can better appreciate the suggestion of an early writer upon this 
subject, who proposed that "Chicago forestall criticism by adopting the 'Chicagou' 
(wild onion) from root to flower as its civic emblem, 'gare a touche.' Touch it who dare! " 

8 8 8 8 

In 1773, William Murray, a British subject, residing at Kaskaskia, induced the 
Indians to part with the land upon which Chicago now stands, as well as all the 
land west of the same to the Mississippi River, and south to where the Mississippi 
joins the Illinois, and here we are confronted by the first North Shore real estate 
deal, when we find that Murray's transaction involved all the land north, as far as 



96 



HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 

the present site of Waukegan. And five shillings (one dollar and a quarter) together 
with a small amount of merchandise was the consideration! 

The treaty of Greenville, August 3, 1795, eventually disposed of this claim, 
and a piece of land, six miles square, from the mouth of the Chicago River, emptying 
into the southwest end of Lake Michigan, and where a French fort had formerly 
stood, was ceded by the Indians to the United States Government. There are three 
treaties particularly interesting to the North Shore dwellers. By the treaty of Saint 
Louis, August 24, 1816 — four years after the Fort Dearborn massacre as well as the 
year of its rebuilding — twenty miles of the Lake front, now immediately south of 
Evanston, as well as a great adjacent territory lying west and south, was ceded by 
the Indians. Its northern boundary was defined by that old street, which for years 
bore the title of "Indian Boundary," and which, unfortunately, has been robbed 
of its historic as well as romantic interest by the municipal authorities changing it 
to "Rogers Avenue." The Indian retained his right to hunt and fish within the 
tract of land, defined as "eleven miles north and ten miles south of the mouth of 
the Chicago River, so long as it may continue the property of the United States." 
By the treaty of Prairie du Chien the Lake front, from what is now Kenilworth, 
to Indian Boundary, Rogers Park, and including the present site of Wilmette and 
Evanston with land west of the same, was ceded by the Indians on July 29, 1829. 

The final treaty of Chicago, September 20, 1833, when the Pottawattomies, 
numbering some five thousand, ceded all that remained of their lands in Illinois 
and Wisconsin, was consummated on the North Shore. In a book dedicated to 
Washington Irving, and published in London, in 1835, the scene of this final yielding 
is graphically described by an eye witness, in the person of Charles J. Latrobe, 
who accompanied Mr. Irving on his tour over the prairies, and whom the latter 
describes as "a man of a thousand occupations; a botanist, a geologist, a hunter 
of beetles and butterflies, a musical amateur, a sketcher of no mean pretensions, 
in short, a complete virtuoso; added to which, he was very indefatigable, if not 
always, a very successful sportsman." Mr. Latrobe writes: 

"When within five miles of Chicago we came to the first Indian encampment. 
Five thousand Indians were said to be collected around this little upstart village. 
We found the village on our arrival crowded to excess, and we procured, with great 
difficulty, a small apartment, comfortless and noisy, from its close proximity to 
others, but quite as good as we could have hoped for. The Pottawattomies were 
encamped on all sides — on the level prairie beyond the scattered village, beneath 
the shelter of the low woods on the side of the small river, or to the leeward of the 
sandhills, near the beach of the Lake. A preliminary council had been held some 
days before our arrival. The principal commissioners had opened it, as we learned, 
by stating, that 'as their great father in Washington had heard they wished to sell 
their land, he had sent commissioners to treat with them.' The Indians promptly 
answered, 'that the great father in Washington must have seen a bad bird which 
had told him a lie, for that, far from wishing to sell their land, they wished to keep 
it.' The commissioner, nothing daunted, replied: 'That, nevertheless, as they had 
come together for a council, they must take the matter into consultation.' He 
then explained to them promptly the wishes and intentions of their great father, 
and asked their opinion thereon. Thus pressed, they looked at the sky, saw a few 
wandering clouds, and straightway adjourned sine die, 'as the weather is not clear 
enough for so solemn a council.' However, as the treaty had been opened, provi- 
sion was supplied to them by regular rations; and the same night they had great 
rejoicing — danced the war dance and kept the eyes and ears of all open by running and 
howling about the village. Such was the state of affairs on our arrival. Companies 
of old warriors might be seen smoking under every bush; arguing, palavering 
or pow- wowing with great earnestness; but there seemed no possibility of bringing 
them to another council in a hurry. . . I loved to stroll out toward sunset across 
the river, and gaze upon the level horizon, stretching to the northwest over the 
surface of the prairie, dotted with innuinerable objects, far and near. Not far from 
the river lay many groups of tents, constructed of coarse canvas blankets, and 
surmounted by poles, supporting meat, moccasins and rags. Their vicinity was always 
enlivened by various painted Indian figures dressed in the most gaudy attire. The 
interior of the hovels generally displayed a confined area, perhaps covered with a 
few half rotten mats or shavings, upon which men, women, children and baggage 
were heaped pell-mell. Far and wide the grassy prairie teemed with figures; warriors 
mounted or on foot, squaws and horses. Here a race between three or four Indian 
ponies, each carrying a double rider, whooping and yelling like fiends. There, a 
solitary horseman, with a long spear, turbaned like an Arab, scouring along at full 
speed — groups of hobbled horses; Indian dogs and children, or a grave conclave of gray 
chiefs, seated on the grass in consultation. It was amusing to wind silently from group 



97 




98 




PLATE No. 99 

THE PRESENT 
Fort Sheridan, 26 Miles North of the Site of Fort Dearborn 



99 



BOOK OF THE NORTH SHORE 



to group — here noting the raised knife, the sudden drunken brawl, quashed by the 
good-natured and even playful interference of the neighbors; there a party breaking 
up their encampment, and falling with their little train of loaded ponies and wolfish 
dogs into the deep, black, narrow trail running to the north. . . It is a grievous 
thing that the government is not strong handed enough to put a stop to the shameful 
and scandalous sale of whiskey to these poor miserable wretches. But here lie casks 
of it for sale under the very eyes of the commissioners, met together for purposes 
which demand that sobriety should be maintained, were it that no one should be 
able to lay at their door an accusation of unfair dealing and of having taken advan- 
tage of the helpless Indian in a bargain, whereby the people of the United States 
were to be so greatly the gainers. Day after day passed. It was in vain that the 
signal given from the fort gave notice of an assemblage of chiefs at the council fire. 
Reasons were always found for its delay. One day an influential chief was not in 
the way; another, the sky looked cloudy, and the Indian never performs an important 
business except the sky be clear. At length, on September 21st, the Pottawattomies 
resolved to ineet the commissioners. We were politely invited to be present. The 
council fire was lighted under a spacious, open shed, on the green meadows, on the 
opposite side of the river from that on which the fort stood. From the difficulty 
of getting all together it was late in the afternoon when they all assembled. There 
might be twenty or thirty chiefs present, seated at the lower end of the enclosure, 
while the commissioners, interpreters, etc., were at the upper. The palaver was 
opened by the principal commissioner. The relative positions of the commissioners 
and the whites before the council fire, and that of the red children of the forest and 
prairie, were to me strikingly impressive. The light of the setting sun streaming 
in under the council house fell full on the countenances of the former, as they faced 
west — while the pale light of the east, hardly illuminated the dark and painted 
lineaments of the poor Indians, whose souls evidently clave to their birthright. 
. . . Even though convinced of the necessity of their removal, my heart bled for 
them in their desolation and decline. Ignorant and degraded as they may have 
been in their original state, their degradation is now tenfold, after years of inter- 
course with the whites; and their speedy disappearance from the earth appears as 
certain as though it were accomplished. . . Even if he had the will, the power 
would be wanting for the Indian to keep his territory, and that the business of 
arranging the terms of an Indian treaty, whatever it might have been, two hun- 
dred years ago, while the Indian tribes had not, as now, thrown aside the rude but 
vigorous intellectual character which distinguished many among them, now lies 
between the various traders, agents, creditors and half-breeds of the tribes, on whom 
custom and necessity have made the degraded chief a dependent of the govern- 
ment agents. Before we left Chidago on the twenty-fifth, three or four days later, 
the treaty with the Pottawattomies was concluded — the commissioners putting 
their hands, and the assenibled chiefs their paws, to the same." 

Space forbids complete citation of this entertaining narrative, but sufficient has 
been quoted to put the reader in touch with the pathetic drama enacted on the 
North Shore less than a century ago. Over the trails, many of which are now 
clearly defined highways, passed the Indian. What a commingling of distress and 
of doubt must have taken possession of his soul! Was it the will of his "Kitche- 
nianito" — this prerogative exercised by his "great father" at Washington? To his 
right are the wonderful waters, of which his canoe, many a time, has been the play- 
thing, and in which he loved to sink his net, to again draw it upward with its finny 
feast — and the incoming wavelets sound as a dirge to his distraught understanding. 
The trail leads hiin into the woodlands, from whence he has obtained inaterials for 
building his canoe — and now the silver birches seem to extend their graceful branches 
in farewell, while the whispering winds make threnetic music, the like of which he 
has never before heard. On his left is the fair, far-reaching prairie, over which he 
has roamed and hunted — a king in his own right! Was he conscious of having sold 
his birthright for a "mess of pottage?" We shall never know. But he, and those 
of his kind, cherished resentment of the white man's invasion of his territory until 
it found culmination in the "year of our hundred years," at the Custer massacre. 
After which there was no quarter shown the Indian. 

8 8 8 8 
As in every section of America, the Indian's departure from any particular 
locality, or his confinement within the reservation restrictions, meant a further 
settlement of the country. Confidence took possession of the homeseekers, not 
only of those in America itself, but in lands across the sea, and the tide of immigra- 
tion now began to flow westward, until the growth of the city of Chicago became 
phenomenal. It had its reverses in the form of flood, fire and panic, as well as in 



100 




101 




Courtesy Mrs. B. A. Squires Plate No. 101 

HOMESTEAD OF THE LATE ROBERT R. CLARK 

(Built in 1859) 

Intersection Halsted and Clark Streets, Chicago 




Plate No. 102 



THE LAKE VIEW HOUSE 

(Permission Mr. James J. Wilson and Chicago Historical Society) 



102 



HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 

epidemics of disease; but the inspiration to accomplish always remained. Skies, 
beclouded at times, but more generally beneficent; the inland sea at its feet, waiting 
the moment when the hulls of brig, schooner and propeller should, in turn, plough 
or churn its waters in fair competition for the commerce that must eventually come 
this way; boundless prairies to the west and south, awaiting the turn of the plow 
and the skill of the husbandman; undulating woodlands, and forests north, in which 
might nestle some of the fairest of homes. All followed in due course, after the 
significant treaty, disposing of the Indians — the Pottawattomies — familiar to this 
neighborhood. 

The Great (everything is associated with this adjective in Chicago) Fire desolated 
the North Side as far as FuUerton Avenue, while before that period (1871) many 
charming country homes were snuggled in among the woods, in and around Lake 
View. One of these has historical significance, as it played its part as a refuge to 
many who had been rendered homeless by the dire catastrophe that had practically 
wiped out the whole city. To this home, built in 1859, by the late Robert R. Clark — 
afterward police commissioner in Lake View — came the sufferers from the North 
Side. The latter was the distinguishing appellation of that portion of the city, 
extending beyond the river to the north — the designation, "North Shore," is of 
later origin. The house to which we have reference is still in existence on North 
Halsted Street, at the intersection of Clark Street. In any vehicle that could be 
procured, but mostly on foot, came the refugees. The house was commodious, and 
its hospitality was extended until its walls fairly bulged, while its park-like setting, 
of some sixteen acres, assumed the appearance of a vast camp, where tents or any- 
thing that might be utilized as an equivalent were erected for temporary shelter. 
Through cheery vistas in the forest-growth eastward Mr. Clark's residence then 
commanding an uninterrupted view, was seen the shimmering surface of the Lake, 
and the victims of the dire catastrophe took heart of grace and breathed "I Will." 

There was also a hotel, called the Lake View House, having been opened on 
July 4, 1854, occupying a site at the northwest corner of what is now designated 
Grace Street and Sheridan Road. This had been built by James H. Rees and Elisha 
E. Huntley, and was, without doubt, the first hotel erected in close proximity to 
the Lake, and to demonstrate that the North Shore was the locality, par excellence, 
as a summer abiding place. This hostelry, undoubtedly sheltered sufferers from 
the fire. It passed through many vicissitudes, until the year 1890, and then was 
torn down, and, like the Indian before it, gave way to the onward march of progress. 

No one seems to really know when the stretches of desirable land to the north 
of the city took unto themselves the inclusive and exclusive dignity of being addressed 
as the "North Shore." This designation has for some long time past, however, 
been coveted as a desirable prefix, not only to real estate, but to commercial 
affairs generally, all clinging to it as to a talisman from which prosperity is bound to 
come. While the designation, "North Shore," contains a charm, not easily put 
into words, by the fortunate possessor of a home — be it a humble or a more pre- 
tentious structure — in this vicinity. The winds, either gentle or otherwise, from 
both Lake and prairie, have chanted or thundered paeans in its favor, until, heboid! 
The North Shore extends anywhere from three to six miles west of the body of 
water, which first suggested "shore," the ubiquitous dealer in real estate, undoubtedly 
supplying the prefix. And along this magic trail the city has culled some of its 
fairest additions toward a Greater Chicago — its northern limits now touching elbow 
with the beautiful Evanston. 

As we have seen, the western shore of the Lake, from the early part of the seven- 
teenth century, became an important highway between Chicago portage and Green 
Bay and Mackinac, and for nearly a century and a half Chicago portage maintained 
its position as a desirable gateway for canoes to the water system of Illinois. It 
does not require much of an imagination to picture the narrow canoes, sharp of 
stern and bow, made of layers of birchbark or of skin, stretched over a frail frame- 
work, either skimming the surface of, or doing battle with, the wind-swept waters 
of the Lake, and propelled by the expert and vigorous stroke of the Canadian voyageur 
to the tune of his merry chanson. He was ever merry; this swarthy-faced individual, 
accustomed as he was to privation and toil, to danger, as well as to extreme hard- 
ship and isolation. On his lip was ever a smile, a song, or a quip. He played his 
part well in beguiling the weary hours of travel under conditions of which we, in 
this twentieth century, can form no conception. The engagd of missionary and of 
hunter and of trader was much of the same order, capable, faithful, fearless and cheerful. 

In a procession pictured in the imagination passes in review Indian, mis- 
sionary — Jesuit and R^collet — explorer, hunter, trader, voyageur, adown the 
western shore of the Lake whose charm lies in its varied moods, never looking today 
as it did yesterday, but at most times a glorious mirror in which is reflected the 



103 



BOOK OF THE NORTH SHORE 



azure fac-e of the heavens. This interesting ccjmjjany saw the weathered and cor- 
rugated bluffs, or the low-lying dunes, upon which we stand today, with varied 
interests; but not one— not even he from the environment of a highly civilized and 
romantic nation — ever dreamed of the standard of our })resent evolution! 

The beach is of import, also, for the stones and pebbles yielded by the Lake, 
I)rf)vided material for the imjjlements and weajjons used by the Indian, even in 
an era of which we have no record. Such a beach as that extending from the foot 
of Columbia Avenue, Rogers Park, without doubt afforfled site for a workshop 
for the native artisan, skilled in the manufacture of such utensils and weapons. 
Later, his j)alc-faced l)rother, in the same neighborhood, utilized like material in 
rearing an entire structure — well ])roportione(l and artistic of design; the beach 
stf)nes serving his |)uri)o.se, admirably, as building material. The aboriginal never 
discovered the subtle lights, the exquisite colorings, of which the surface of these 
stones is suscei)tible, when massed together in a wall. That was left for the a])pre- 
ciation of his white brtjther, only a few of whom, unfortunately, realize the adapta- 
bility (){ this material tc; artistic and individual residence structures. 

But let us now turn our attention inland, toward that which remains of the 
ancient forest, grove and woodland, aking this same N(;rth Shore. Here, extending 
near and far, were the native wigwams, groui)ed in villages, and, connected by trails — 
those well-defined byways over which the softly shod mocctisined feet trod, in the 
long ago. O mutable waters of our lovely inland sea! O many-hued stones and 
])cbbles of our North Shore beach! O scarred bluff and wind-swejit dune; forest 
oak and silver birch! If speech were only thine! Silent witnes.ses of the jjast, yet 
bearing indisputable evidence whereby the student, the archaeologist may build 
for oiH" instniction and edification! But many mysteries must remain unsolved. 

Over wliich jjarticular trail to the north, and along our shore fled the fearless 
and wounded Tonty? The roots of the wild onion, with difliculty torn from the 
frozen earth, and the acorns, bushels of which we may yet gather in the.se North 
Shore woods, his only diet! Did the so-called Indi.an trees, one or two of which we 
still find in this vicinity, but which are fast disa])j)earing, lend their aid in his guid- 
ance through the forest? Probal)ly we shall never know for certainty which trail 
he chose. Those curious looking Indian trees, which have the appearance of being 
bent and fastened down, the elbow ])art, in course of time, taking root and s])routing 
u]) beside the ])arent stem, a sejjaratc yet united offshoot. They were the Indian's 
signjHjsts, marking the direction of the trail in the intricate forest. Many of these 
queer trees, i)rin('ii)a]ly of the white oak variety, bear evidence of having thus stood 
for a century or more. 

It is of interest to note the various periods in whicli individual dwellers, with 
unbounded faith in its future, united together in jjlatting and recording each suburb 
as a village. The first to receive this hf)nor was Port Clinton, now a part of High- 
land Park, ])latted and recorded in 1850. Evanston followed in 1854; Lake Forest 
in 1H57; Highland Park, 1869; Wilnu-ltc, 1 87 1 ; Rogers Park, 1 872, Winnetka, 1873; 
(ilencoe, 187^; Gilbert Hubbard's Subdivision, now known as Hubbard Woods, 1874; 
Argyle Park, 1884; lulgewater, 1887; Kenilworth, 1890, with the Kenilwortli Company's 
addition in 1892. Argyle Park, the two Edgewaters and Rogers Park are now part 
of the city of Chicago. Edgewater's founder was Mr. J. Lewis Cochran. He sub- 
divided 350 acres, putting in street imi)rovements and building some three hundred 
houses. It required not only a large amount of ca])ital, but unbounded faith in 
the future. The only transjjortation was the Evanston branch of the Chicago, 
Milwaukee & St. Paul R. R., with terminus at the Union Dejjot. In 1893, the 
electric surface road was opened. Many of us recall the delight with which we 
hailed tliis buzzing iniioxator, who.se bumblcbceish vibrations were as music to the 
ears of the long-suffering "better transportation" advocate. Then the "trolley- 
parties" with which tlie road favored its patrons! We recall how the single track, 
niterspensed here and there with convenient sidings, jjushed through byways, tangled 
and (jvergrown with brushwood and trees. In the open car, on a summer evening, 
this ride was ])articularly enjoyable, for trees and bushes reaching out on either side 
swished against the invader in musicid ])rotest, while the air was fragrant with woodsy 
sweets, and, between whiles, the Lake might be seen under the silvered sheen of moon- 
light. Now the Jivanston Division of the Northwestern Elevated carries a host of 
patrons over the original C. M. <.V .St. P. tracks. 

While on this subject of transjjortation, a word for the enterpri.se of Chicago's 
first railroad (1848), now generally designated as the Chicago c^- North- Western. 
It has passed through so many vici.ssitudes that its evolution into the road of today 
reads like romance. Witness now its finely equij^ped Milwaukee Division, for this 
has been a power in the development of the Nortii Shore suburbs and towns. Its 



104 



HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 

fine embankments and subways, its artistic stations in an environment of parkway 
and gardens, have all helped toward evolution from the country village, with its 
primitive methods, to the fair and progressive suburbs of the city and the prosperous 
towns and cities beyond. 

"In no section so near the center of the city," said Mr. Albert G. Wheeler, in 
conversation with the writer, "can be found such desirable territory for an exclusive 
residence district as on the mile wide strip, extending from Argyle Park along the 
North Shore. It is absolutely free from factories, noise and smoke." And he has 
demonstrated his faith in this expressed belief by erecting one of the finest resi- 
dences to be found within its limits. 

S 8 S 8 

Rogers Park, whose northern boundary forms the city limits, has also been 
benefited by its enterprising subdividers and home-builders. One of the pioneers 
in this particular is Mr. Franklin H. Doland. In 1885 he purchased sixteen acres 
in this vicinity, built his residence — at that time the most costly structure in Rogers 
Park — and after removing here with his family, purchased another twenty-three 
acres. Mr. Doland was also the pioneer of cement and stone sidewalks, as well as 
of the plan of arranging avenues on either side of the street. In his subdivisions 
he built about four miles of sidewalk and planted over four thousand trees. Many 
of the exquisitely shaded streets of the northern portion of the suburb owe their 
origin, not only to the order in planting, but to the science in trimming, exercised 
by Mr. Doland 's thought for the future. There is no more beautiful part of the 
suburb than Kenilworth Avenue, extending from Perry Avenue westward to Clark 
Street, with its tall elms, shading, yet never intruding upon residence or sidewalk. 
Mr. John M. Carlson has also done much as a home-builder. His enterprises have 
been more in the direction of the less pretentious class of hoines, and, as such, a need 
was met; convenience and practicability being the first consideration, and such plan- 
ning has brought forth good results. To the north, in the locality of Rogers Park, 
known as Birchwood, Mr. Charles H. Thompson has been the magician under whose 
wand have arisen many very artistic and individual residences, none of which awaits 
longer than the getting rid of the workmen for the coming of the occupant and owner. 

Before streets were opened and before subdivisions were in course of progress 
the byways leading to the Lake, particularly east of the C. M. & St. P. tracks — 
Sheridan Road then being little more than a trail — the woodlands were rich in flower 
growth. The hepatica, the violet and a host of other sweet blossoms, together with 
a veritable riot of roses, made the months of May and June a delight in this par- 
ticular section. The cucumber vine, with its delicate lace-like beauty, vied with 
woodbine, wild grape and bittersweet in gracefully drajnng each defect of shattered 
and fallen treegrowth. These same charming artists of the forest persisted in veil- 
ing the real estate signs, as if in protest at their intrusion. The stately elder with 
its broad umbels of cream-colored and white blossoms, followed by the rich purple 
and red fruit, imparted to the byways an ever-varying touch of form and hue. The 
great charm of the Rogers Park woodlands, however, was its silver birch growth, 
the "lady birch" as it is designated by some authorities. Tenderest touches of 
green splashed with yellow in the spring; their columns of silver imparting a striking 
note of beauty in the dense and shadowy byways of summer; while autumn changed 
their delicate foliage to veritable flakes of gold, and my Lady Birch then declared 
herself Queen of the Woodlands! In the winter they assumed a rare individuality, 
standing like pillars of light in purpled shadows, and outvieing the snow-blanketed 
earth in their brilliancy. Oh! how radiant they appeared when caught in the slant- 
ing rays of a rose-colored sunset! And when Old Sol arose from his bed on the 
eastern horizon of the Lake, how tenderly mysterious they became, quivering with 
something akin to the emotion of a messenger who has something surprising to 
impart. You dear old birch trees! Why was speech denied you? Our distinguished 
New England poet immortalized thee — 

"Give me of your bark, 
O Birch-Tree!" 

"Lay aside your cloak, O birch-tree! 
Lay aside your white-skin wrapper. 
For the summer-time is coming. 
And the sun is warm in heaven, 
And you need no white-skin wrapper!" 
Thus aloud cried Hiawatha. 

There were many "Hiawathas," before the coming of the white man, in the 
birchwoods on the site of what is now called Rogers Park, busy building canoes from 
the material at hand. In a few instances the birch tree has been coaxed to remain, 
well cared for on private property. But, as a rule, they resented the onward march 



105 



BOOK OF THE NORTH SHORE 



of civilization, and, like the Indian who loved them, after having bravely faced new 
and strange conditions, at last submitted to the inevitable. Rogers Park should 
have been named "Birchwcod, for its central and southern portion was rich in 
groves of these beautiful trees, and the exclusive designation of its northern portion 
is not in keeping with the truth of its former natural environment. 

In 1848, Mr. Phillip Rogers, after whom the suburb is named, purchased from 
the government a large tract containing 2800 acres, which extended from che Lake 
to Jefiferson, its southern boundary being Sunnyside Avenue, and its northern desig- 
nation "Indian Boundary," or what is now called Rogers Avenue. Mr. Rogers 
paid $1.25 per acre, and disposed of it or left it to his heirs as acre property. One 
hundred acres in the western portion of this original tract, which for some years 
has been known as the Schmedtgen estate, has been recently sold for $1000 per acre. 
Rogers Park, unfortunately, did not, until quite recently, set aside any land for 
park purposes. 

In September, 1895, J. Harrison White, in connection with his already established 
business as a publisher of medical journals, removed the office of these publications 
to Rogers Park, and here, in conjunction with his wife, Marian A. White, issued a 
weekly paper known as the "North Shore Suburban," in the interests of the suburbs 
designated the "North Shore." Mr. White was an experienced newspaper man, 
and Mrs. White already a writer of acknowledged ability. Fearlessly they handled 
the questions of public improvements, and one of the earliest editorials, from which 
quotation is made, will show the spirit of the publication, as well as the condition 
of the suburb at that time, in contrast with what it is at present. 

Editorial from "North Shore Suburban," published at Rogers Park, October 
4, 1895. and headed "Improvement Committee Body Needed:" 

"It is evident that Rogers Park is in need of a Committee on Improvements. 
If some of our leading men would only band together for this purpose we should 
not remain in the sort of jay town condition. Our representatives live too far from 
us, and we are too far away from the rest of the city fathers for them to keep a 
watchful care of our interests; so between the two we are about in the same sort 
of unfinished condition, with regard to the care of our streets, as when we dropped 
our tools and hurrahed for annexation. A committee whose business it would be 
to look after all vexatious annoyances, such as uneven sidewalks, ploughed up instead 
of paved streets; the extermination of the all too friendly bur that sticketh closer 
than a brother; the destruction of the festive ragweed and other weeds that obstruct 
the pathway — even on cemented ways; the removal of garbage; the littering of the 
streets, etc., together with many more nuisances than we are able to enumerate, 
could do much by giving a little time toward the rapid improvement of this portion 
of the city." 

Editorials similar in tone followed until October 23, 1896, and on November 24 
of that year the Rogers Park Improvement Association sprang into existence, with 
Professor Leach as president: J. I. Ennis, secretary, and James J. Barbour, treasurer. 
They were three active, energetic and enthusiastic workers, and to these and others, 
the pioneers of needed improvements and the correction of abuses, Rogers Park 
owes much. 

The North Shore Park District, organized May 15, 1900, with five commissioners, 
L. G. Kirkland, F. H. Doland, C. L. Benson, R. W. Vasey and J. I. Ennis, also 
received its first impetus from the "North Shore Suburban." Mr. Kirkland was 
the first president, and Mr. J. Fred McGuire the first secretary of this second sig- 
nificant improvement association, and the territory embraced all of Rogers Park 
between Clark Street and Lake Michigan, and between Indian Boundary and Devon 
Avenue. There is a strip of land on the Lake front, extending half a block north 
and south of Farwell Avenue, which is now under improvement for park purposes. 
Rogers Park is a fitting site for the study of the landscape gardener, and in recent 
years Mr. A. Setterberg has done much toward suggesting landscape art. He has 
had much experience, loves trees, and delights in preserving the natural growth in 
the residence districts, so by judicious cutting out and pruning he makes this natural 
growth subservient to his own immediate plans and adjuncts to an artistic whole. 

g 8 8 g 

The farther north one travels the higher the shore line and the more varied 
the contour of the land, and the more vigorous the forest growth. Evanston is a 
beautiful city, ideal in its preservation of the forest trees and in its system of well- 
paved and neatly kept thoroughfares. The stranger is impressed with the fact that 
each individual Evanstonian takes a personal pride in the neat appearance of his 
city. There are many beautiful homes here; many dear, old-fashioned structures, 
as well as those of more modern design and imposing appearance; but all in an 



106 



HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 

environment of emerald lawn, graceful shrub, clinging vine and stately trees. The 
immediate Lake front has been preserved for park purposes, considerable land having 
been redeemed from the Lake itself; the famous Sheridan Road, as a rule, forming 
the western boundary of this most perfect system of devoting a choice stretch of 
land to the public good. This highway, which extends for thirty miles northward 
from Chicago — it being a part of the latter's boulevard system — was conceived by 
an Evanstonian, the late Volney W. Foster. Evanston's beginnings center in the 
history of its University, 560 acres being purchased by the trustees in 1854, for the 
purpose of developing this higher class education, and the growth of the university 
is, to a certain extent, the development of the city itself. Founded in love and in 
sincerity, is it wonder that Evanston should later become known as the "classic" 
city of the West? It received its name in honor of Dr. John Evans, who took a 
very active part in securing the site for the University. Ten students in a frame 
building in 1855! Over four thousand in handsome brick and stone edifices in 1909! 




Courtesy Mr. l-'rank R. Grover I'LATli No. 10! 

North Shore Residence of Antoine Ouilmette and Family (1828-1844) 

From Water Color Drawinjr liy Mr. Charles P. Westerfiekl 

The highways and byways of the past in Evanston are of unusual interest, 
and its Historical Society has been active in perpetuating memories of the native 
people that roamed at will through its superb forest environment, hunting the deer 
or other animals then familiar to its vicinity. Besides the ever-present trail, the 
natural highway of the Indian, has, as in other places along the North Shore, been 
appropriated by the white man, and converted into well-paved streets and boule- 
vards, along which the automobile has taken right of way; while Indian mounds 
and graves have been found in many localities within the boundary of the city, 
and frequently on sites now occupied by one or more of the University buildings 
themselves, or by private residences. Within two miles of its present city limits, 



107 



BOOK OF THENORTH SHORE 



the good Father Pinet, in 1696, had his "Mission of the Guardian Angel" among 
the Miami Indians, and here, in 1699, he was visited by Saint Cosme and others, 
with Henry de Tonty as guide and protector, while on their way to the Illinois 
country, via the Chicago portage. 

g S 8 8 

Wilmette takes its name from the wife of Antoine Ouilmette, a Frenchman, 
who married Archange, a Pottawattomie maiden. Ouilmette was one of the first 
white settlers in Chicago occupying one of the four cabins that constituted the 
settlement of Chicago, in 1803. There were born to the Ouilmettes eight children, 
the names of whom appear in the several affidavits, deeds and documents relating 
to the title to the reservation, upon the site of which the greater portion of Wil- 
mette, as well as a part of Evanston, now stands. Ouilmette's marriage to Archange, 
the Pottawattomie, is historical, for it is said to be the first North Shore wedding 
of which there is any record. The wedding took place at Gross Point in 1796. 
Ouilmette's daughter, Elizabeth, was twice married. Her first husband was Michael 
Welch, who has the honor of being designated not only the "first Irishman" in 
Chicago, but the first of his nationality on the North Shore. His marriage with 
Elizabeth Ouilmette took place on May 11, 1830, and in a log cabin that stood until 
1903 on the east side of Sheridan Road, two blocks north of the Kenilworth water 
tower. Fortunately, through the enterprise of Mr. Frank R. Grover of Evanston, 
a photograph was taken of this old historic hut before it was removed. There is a 
fine forest growth in Wilmette, much of which is still in a good state of preservation. 
Cultivation and trimming will do much to keep these trees in condition, whereby 
the suburban dweller may be benefited. We have heard of houses beiiig built to 
accommodate the tree growth, and it is not a bad plan, providing there is nothing 
freakish in the design. However, much of the wildwood growth, in the form of 
flowers and hedges of roses, may be preserved by the settler on his own particular 
lot. For many of them take kindly to being transplanted, as the writer knows from 
personal experience. 

The new North Shore channel of the Chicago Sanitary District has its entrance 
from Lake Michigan in Wilmette, a short distance north of the Evanston limits, 
where a harbor has been built and where the commissioners have created from the 
material taken from the ditch a park on its north bank. The water flows into the 
canal at the rate of 1000 cubic feet per second, which is of sufficient force to dilute 
all sewage that may be turned into it. Great possibilities for beautifying the banks 
of this canal through the suburban residence sections is evident, and will, in all 
probability, be considered seriously in some well organized association, such as our 
Park Boards. The right of way of the channel is 600 feet in width; the canal is 
from 26 to 30 feet in width at bottom, with a 130-feet width at top, and 13 feet of 
depth, and the approximate cost is $2,500,000. 

About fifteen miles north of Chicago is Kenilworth, which has a marked indi- 
viduality. Here was opportunity for landscape artist and architect to work in 
unison, and here, too, it being the youngest of the North Shore settlements, each 
could profit by the advantages or disadvantages of the planning and building of 
the earlier communities; and to their credit, be it recorded, Kenilworth stands alone 
in having made the best of all that Nature bestowed. Even Evanston, as well as 
Highland Park and Rogers Park, have had to destroy in modern times that which 
was planned and builded in earlier times. Not so will it be with Kenilworth. The 
entrance to this lovely home town is beyond reproach; its large fountain and cemented 
angles of streets, together with its superb tree growth, suggest a park of some mag- 
nitude and beauty. No straggling line of one-story stores, no freaks of the builder 
of the "railroad" street offend the eye. The noble forest growth of oak, elm, ash 
and other native trees have been barely cleared to admit of residences being built, 
yet all is in order and arranged with artistic taste. The large trees are trimmed 
so as not to interfere, their tops forming a canopy of varied green in summer, while 
in winter they are etched against the sky line or casting athwart the snow-covered 
lawns blue and purple traceries, such as no artist could hope to imitate with any 
degree of success. Nothing had stood in this wilderness of forest previous to its 
being platted as a desirable residence site, except the wigwam of the Indian and 
a solitary log cabin, which stood on the bluff, thirty-five feet above the Lake, and in 
which Elizabeth Ouilmette was married to Michael Welch. Well paved and cleanly 
streets, over which much of the original forest growth throws its grateful shade 
and protection, make of Kenilworth a desirable home place. 

8 8 8 8 

Winnetka is another ideal site, and many pretentious homes are here in large 
grounds and amid the most charming environment of tree and shrubbery. Sheridan 



108 



HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESE NIT 



Road takes its way through the village at one block west of the Lake. The northern 
portion of Winnetka is picturesquely designed. The winding thoroughfares, with 
little parks ornamented with shrubbery and intersecting the streets at right angles, 
are delightful surprises to the tourist, either on foot or in a vehicle. The contour 
of the land is rising and rolhng, and the outlook on the Lake a dream. It was ofT 
the Winnetka shore that the ill-fated Lady Elgin went down November 7, i860, 
with all on board. Part of its hull is still visible in the shallow waters east of the 
charmingly artistic residence of Mr. Franklin Rudolph. Winnetka in summer is 
most beautiful, but in the autumn it is gloriously beautiful. No pen can describe, 
no painting convey any just record of the exquisite mingling of colors in the foHage. 
The softened rays of sunlight twinkle between canopies of gold, crimson and rare 
bronze, while eastward the waters lie bathed in an atmosphere of indescribable hue. 




Photo by I 



LOG HOUSE AT KENILWORTH, BUILT BY JOHN DOYLE 

Torn down about 1902 

(Courtesy Chicago Historical Society) 



Plate No. io4 



Winnetka is said to be an Indian word meaning "beautiful place." And no one 
can deny that it has a right to the title. The rising ground in its northern portion 
melts imperceptibly into what is known as Hubbard Woods, where there are many 
sequestered homes of modern architectural lines which conform to their picturesque 
environment. Hubbard Woods was, until recently, recognized as Lakeside — so 
named in 1870 by David Gage of Chicago, the name being suggested by its proximity 
to the Lake. Before this it was named Taylorsville, after the Taylor family, who 
were its earliest settlers. Its change to Hubbard Woods was in honor of Gordon S. 
Hubbard, who at one time owned the acres comprising this site. 

s e 8 8 

Glencoe was for a long time a dear old sleepy locality in which the homes were 
scarcely discernible from the public thoroughfares, so closely nestled were they to 
woodland and adorned with vine growth. Now it is a burgh of some distinction in 
the hst of North Shore towns. The writer well recalls the advent of Melville E. 



109 




Plate No. 105 



INDIAN TRAIL TREE AT LAKESIDE 

(Courtesy Chicago Historical Society) 



110 



HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 

Stone in this neighborhood. He was the first to advocate improvements along 
modern lines, and built a charming house on the edge of a ravine facing what is 
now Sheridan Road. This ravine had to be bridged before the building material 
could be brought there, and we believe this was the first iron bridge built in the 
vicinity, for other ravines were bridged with wood, and many of these had been 
swept away by fire. It was a great accommodation to those living north of Glencoe, 
as the bridge did away with a difficulty encountered in driving south. Sheridan 
Road in this vicinity at that time was a country road with deep and irregular ruts, 
hard enough in summer, but simply impassable during the spring and fall, the 
mud being as sticky as only a clay soil can be. It was used principally by farmers 
drawing loads of wood, for "cord-wood" was the principal fuel used here at that 
time. The writer, when moving to Rogers Park, in 1893, brought some of this fuel 
along, and had a woodpile in the back yard for many a long day. 

There are now many handsome residences in Glencoe, as well as finely kept 
thoroughfares. Among the most striking of these homes is that of Mr. Harry Rubens. 
It is so unique that it is worth writing about. It stands in the midst of the most 
lovely park acreage the writer has seen, outside of Old England. You have to 
literally find the house, and the safer plan is to keep to the broad driveway after 
you enter the stone gateway, with its clock that chiines musically for the benefit 
of all Glencoe. You twist and turn, and become lost in the wonder of the park- 
like grounds. Then you are conscious of approaching a structure in keeping with 
what you have already seen. But there is the lily pond, like a jewel in a setting! 
Hemlock, whispering pines, trees of every variety, and the most brilliant bank of 
scarlet salvias, while, beyond, a vista of green and undulating surface, in which the 
native growth has been encouraged, is the Lake, which on that particular day, looked 
like a glimpse of the Rhine. Old Lake Michigan has many moods, and, on occasion, 
it can assume the aspect of any of the most famous and lovely waters of the world. 

The name of Glencoe has a romantic origin. Mr. W. S. Gurnee, a well-known 
citizen of early Chicago, was smitten by the charms of the place, which suggested 
to him vale and dale and dell and dingle, and lastly, "glen." His wife was a Miss 
Coe, and he gallantly added her maiden name as a completion; so it has come to 
us as the pretty title of Glencoe. You see, in spite of criticism to the contrary, there 
was a Chicago man in the long ago, who was romantic as well as commercial. 

8 8 8 8 

It is nearly twenty-five years since the writer went to live in Ravinia, now a 
portion of Highland Park. Much of the original forest growth was here, particularly 
bordering the deep ravines, which gashed the land through to the Lake. A few 
Indian trail trees were here, too, and adjacent to the Lake were sections of a clearly 
defined and deeply indented trail. The rains and frosts, as well as the dashings of 
the storm-lashed waters below, had caused the clay bluffs to wear, until tons of earth, 
with some of the finest forest trees and portions of this trail, would slip to the beach; 
or, being arrested in its progress by a part of some previous disintegration, it would 
settle in the most unique fashion, the trees reaching out horizontally to the water, 
while their roots remained einbedded in the soil. The writer was more than once, 
during the equinoctial gales, a witness to just such a disintegration of the bluff; 
at one time barely lescaping being buried underneath. A visit to the shore on the 
following morning revealed quantities of sparkling material, having the appear- 
ance, to the uninitiated, of gold ore. Nuggets of it were carefully gathered, and 
the head of the household took the same — being persistently enjoined to say nothing 
about the "find" to anyone in the neighborhood — to a Chicago assayer. "Only 
iron pyrites!" And, with a genial smile, "Lots of others, like yourselves, thought 
they had a gold mine in those same old bluffs!" 

In the crevices of these "same old bluffs" grew the blue-fringed gentian, while 
upon ledges higher up were found stately orange and red lilies; these latter were 
enhanced in color when seen in the morning sunlight. Then their transparent hues 
often saved them from the desecrating hand of the flower gatherer, for they seemed 
to voice a sentiment of protest; so for a long time they escaped. 

In the shelter of the forest in early spring, among other wildwood flowers, came 
the trillium, the earth being literally carpeted in a mosaic of green and white. Mrs. 
Harcourt Mott, a most excellent painter of flowers, now living in Ravenswood, made these 
children of the wildwoods her particular study for years. The trilliums are passing away; 
the painter's delineation will be all that remains of these delicate and beautiful 
denizens of the North Shore. Much of this wild growth takes kindly to transplanting, 
if conditions be about equal. The writer was very successful in planting most 
varieties in a small grove adjacent to the home. The orange lily, however, became 
somewhat smaller and faded in color, while the red lily scorned to be thus civilized, 



111 



BOOK O ? 



KE NORTH SHORE 



Who cool 



DOng XKHh 



rsiit at that tkr. 

rapid transp' 

:' sodi an ide: 

'1 be let: 

-.ave he£- 



for its traiisiJaiitiiig. The ferns in tke 

Heties. and posably more, idiile between 

'je -mid crab in full Uossom, its fragrance 

into view. The wild hawdioni was 

' and as fragrant as its Idn of the 

' -- the gaxden, wfaoe it smiled in 

-^ons. but saccmntnng to winter 

:^r.iing knee-deep in snow and 

years ago, that electrioty 

'fa. auod other places? 

that time, where the 

like die Thomas 

a Suite" by the 

- ' %t MacDowdl 

rk dioald be 

:, prevent its 




The dty at Hi;- 
natmal that the for- 
anjrfaow. Its dev&- 
park-like ^ypearan. 
panjr. w4io owned th 
this dtj, so that ir 
Most of the homes 
tile dty is v«y m j 
sh^i^ dunbbay 
int»est asBOCtated 
Indian village, and ~ 
has been made in * 
ttndoobtedly ck)se * 
wariied awanr, »m1 
hot^ that handsor 
nte, or in dose pnr 
more in coutoast t'. 
fiajed its -peat, and 
and both involved :r 
and managns. No*. 



'k is bat three miles north of Ravinia, and it was but 

' :ie to annex the same. It was better for Ravinia, 

*.he part of its name "Hirfiland." and its natural 

-'■':.- so named by the Port Clinton Land Com- 

There «e delig^itf ul ravines running throu^ 

"rttlement there were good drainage facilities. 

.tood in park-Eke grounds, and although 

- rrrftion is ever toward fine tree growth, 

- bloom. There is much of historic 

-k. Here, at oce time, was a large 

'. : Ve Shore, and of i^iich mention 

ed through this territory, and 

*-'-7 that much of it has been 

' probability the Moraine 

--ke front, is either on the 

'. you conceive of ainrthing 

♦er structure, one having 

'ights for public favor, 

-«iit to their founders 

'«- '>• '.'.f- on^-.r.a early North Shore 



112 




VIEWS IN- RAVIXIA AND HIGHLAND PARK 



Pl-VT« No. J«- 



113 



XORTH SHORE 



rincsgo. 

' rmy, 

t of 





^Z^^^^. 



114 



HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 



BIBLIOGRAPHY 

HxsixMric liliiMias, Ranisk. 

Jesuit Ridatioiis^ Thwaiite. 

Early Voyages Mississipjia, SBaea, 

Story of CMcag©, KirMaawL 

Histiory Coot Cotmty, IHiiioas, Andreas, 

ImHiaTi LaDdmarts Xortii SiKacne, GroTer. 

Amitoiiie Ouilmette, Grover. 

Failaer Pierre FraDcois Knet, GroTer. 

The Atrtimc akao desires to express appneciatiom of the lieaplfal corartKy ^icmm 
by tiae Chicago aztd EvaaisitoiQ Hisiborical Societies, and to tiie C3saca^ & Xortii- 
Westeru Railwav Co. few the kum <rf several iostorical iUastratioits. 



115 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



HOMES AND GARDENS 



PLATE NO. 

Abbey, C. P 58 

Adolphus, Wolfe 15 

Alexander, H. E 51 

Anderson, Fred A 21 

Barbour, James J 57 

Bemm, Frederick 33 

Bosch, Charles 68, 69 

Brado, Verne L 45 

Brink, A. P 5° 

Brunell, F. H 75 

Burson, W. W 60 

Bryan, F. W 38, 39 

Bryan, Dr. John C 16 

Carter, Lincoln J 17 

Carlson, A 10, i i 

Case, Frank A i.^ 

Decker, Alfred 31 

Doland, F. H 37 

Eddy, George D 12 

Ennis, Callistus S 49 

Fahrney, Wm. H 7 

Fessenden, Benjamin A 90 

Fowler, E. L 73 

Garvy, Dr. A. Cosmas 28 

Gately, John 14 

Getty, F. W 3° 

Grosvenor, Dr. W. F 20 

Gunder, S. H '. . 6 

Haegele J. C 44 

Hammond, L. P 62 

Haskins, R. C 46 

Herbert, Mrs. K. E 27 

Hippach, L. A 47 

Hollister, H. L 54, 55 

Houghton, E. W 36 

Hurd, Harry B 43 

Huston, Ward T 34 

Jaekel, W 64 

Johnson, A. M 5 



PLATE NO. 

Johnson, Dr. C. N 9 

Linthicum, C. C 72 

Mather, R. H 48 

McKay, Henry H 41 

McMullin, Frank R 92 

Middendorf, Geo. N 23 

Moeng, E. D. (entrance) Front Cover 

Moeng, E. D 32 

Montgomery, F. B 22 

Moraine, The 89 

O'Meara, James J 53 

Pearson, W. B 8 

Perkins, H. F 24 

Peters, Jos. G 25 

Pond, Walter M 74 

Rubens, Harry 85, 86 

Rudolph, Franklin 83,84 

Schultz, Henry W 77 

Schulze, Paul 78 

Serrell, W. L 81 

Shattock, Henry E 40 

Shepherd, E. S 4 

Spoor, George K 19 

Stafford, E: H 76 

Starck, P. A 26 

Steele, Frederick Morgan 87, 88 

Steffens, O. M 59 

Stolp, Dr. Rufus B 79 

Stone, George A 52 

Sullivan, Capt. D 29 

Thompson, C. H 56 

Thorn, John C 63 

Thurber, Seymour J. . . .' 35 

Tritschler, C. F 67 

Uhl, Edward H 42 

Walker, Stephen L 61 

Weinand, Mrs. John N 18 

Wheeler, Albert G i, 2,3 

Wilson, Louis T 80 



MISCELLANEOUS 



Clark, Robert R., Homestead loi 

Evanston, Views of 71 

Fort Dearborn in 1803 98 

Fort Sheridan 99 

Highland Park, Views of 107 

Indian Trail Tree 105 

Lake Michigan — Foot Columbia Ave 66 

Lake Michigan — Foot Devon Ave 65 

Lake Michigan — Foot Glenlake Ave 70 

Lake View House 102 

La Salle, Portrait of 97 



Log House at Kenilworth 104 

Loyola Academy 95. 96 

Marquette at Chicago River 94 

Marquette's Signature 94 

Old Homestead, Ravinia 91 

Ouilmette, Antoine, Residence of 103 

Pioneer Residence 82 

Ravinia, Views of 107 

St. Mary's of the Woods 108 

Trilliums 106 

Wolf's Point, Chicago, 1832 101 



PAGE 

Highways and Byways, Past and Present 87-114 



116 



OEG IS VM 



One copy del. to Cat. Div. 



U- 1^^'^ 



